Expat Observations: Jaywalking

New Yorkers waiting to cross the street

Americans like to think of themselves as rule-breakers…we will not be bound by The Man’s decrees. And in many cases, that’s an accurate description. (See: the rise in sovereign citizens and the libertarian movement).

But when it comes to jaywalking, folks across the United States still largely prefer to cross at the mandated points of an intersection. Sure, there is a small minority who believe jaywalking is their god-given right, and any laws proscribing it infringe on the fundamental rights of man. Sir, this is a Wendy’s.

They are on to something, though, as most laws relating to jaywalking tend to be enforced disproportionately against communities of color. I have a feeling, though, that the sovereign citizens and libertarians of the world don’t give much thought to those folks.

For most people, crossing at a prescribed location, when the little man or the walk sign is green, remains the preferred method of getting to the other side of the street. But it’s not unheard of or uncommon to see folks scamper across the road when the coast is clear. Wading into traffic and timing your crossing between the cars whizzing by, however, would be a shock to the system for most Americans.

So it should come as no surprise that the prevalence of jaywalking in Beijing shook my American sensibilities to their core. I mean, folks, when I first arrived, it felt like it was a god damned free for all on the side streets of Beijing. I should note the key here is the noun ‘side.’ Pedestrians usually follow basic etiquette when they arrive at major intersections. Though, just as New Yorkers are prone to do, they will begin to stray out into the road the closer it gets to their green walking light.

Watching Beijingers time their jaywalking to nearly perfect synchronicity is like watching Leo Messi’s pass to Nahuel Molina in Argentina’s quarterfinal match-up against the Netherlands at the World Cup back in December. You don’t believe they can make it or understand what they’re doing until they’ve done it, and you know you’ll never be able to replicate it.

I was passed by an older local man last week as I exited the alley we walk through, one that skirts a canal and opens into a small courtyard with two beer joints and a lottery stand that ultimately spills into a bustling side street filled with shopping. Never missing a stride, he hit the Macadam, barely even looking to see if any cars were coming, and made it to the other side unscathed.

I followed quickly behind him, thinking I could both keep up and learn a few things--or at least give a shout if he missed an onrushing car. My walk continued past a public bathroom and behind a few apartment buildings along a small walkway next to the same canal beside the alley, I had just exited. When he reached the next street, it too was bustling with midday traffic. He blew through that as well. No stride hitches, no hesitation, no looking both ways. A Beijinger version of Jesus take the wheel, except maybe it was Jesus take the footfall…I don’t know.

Some Beijingers wait patiently at the crosswalk, others not so much.

All I know is this is the sort of thing I see daily. Folks crisscrossing the street, dodging cars, bikes, and scooters, not giving a damn about the small margin for error. I wouldn’t call this behavior unique, as I’m sure many of my Iranian friends would be pretty familiar with it. But it can be dangerous, no matter how skilled folks are at it or how comfortable they are with the small margins of error. The fact is China remains one of the most dangerous places for pedestrians.

There have been attempts to clamp down on it. But as can be the case in any society, when a new rule or decree comes online, it can create more friction and drive demand to continue that behavior—and owing to the sheer population of Chinese cities, who will hand out enough tickets to make it all end? I’m sure, at some point, they will find a happy medium.

As a foreigner living in Beijing, I've been fascinated by the locals' attitude toward jaywalking. It's part of the culture here in Beijing, and despite my pearl-clutching and having my sensibilities questioned, I surprised myself at how quickly I was willing to embrace jaywalking. Thanks to the older gentleman and my keen sense of observation, I’m starting to master the craft. Though, I’m certain Beijingers would beg to differ.