David Shams

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Beers in Beijing: Great Leap—Dongzhimen Brew Pub

The chalkboard beer menu.

As far as first impressions go, this is precisely the sort of place I’d love to spend an afternoon sipping pints of perfectly brewed craft beer. It could easily be mistaken for a favorite haunt for sports fans or beer nerds in any American city.

Wood features, polished and lacquered in medium dark brown tones. It is dimly lit, but not so much that you can’t see the menu. Natural light rushes in through the large windows that look out on the small patio and narrow but bustling side street. Music plays, but not so loud it drowns out your thoughts. It’s a curious melange of American hits, some originals and some redone by Chinese artists.

Above the long bar is a chalkboard with neatly written offerings that are coursing through the numerous tap lines. There’s ample space to belly up to the bar. Maybe 30 seats around the L-shape fixture. A handful of liquors lined up next to the beer mugs just above the refrigerators and below the chalk menu. Just enough of an offering to give glutenphobes an alternative to gastric distress.

They have a nook to the right of the entrance worthy of exploration. If I were a decade younger, this would be the perfect corner for a cheeky date, a quiet snog, or to hold court with my friends. But now, at my age and with two kids in tow, it’s perfect for brunch on some late weekend morning.

In the opposite direction, the bar opens into a larger, more airy space just beyond the high tops and picnic benches to the left of the door and directly in front of the bar. Mirrors to the right leading to the bathroom give the space a roomy feel. And the booths toward the back provide ample room for friends to gather unencumbered.

Of the four times I’ve been, I’ve not had a subpar beer or meal. I’ve almost always arrived when there were very few patrons–midday, midweek, or early on a weekend afternoon. I haven’t been brave enough to try their lunch specials. Spaghetti bolognese just isn’t something I think of when coming to a brew pub in Beijing. But then again, neither is a burger–and to date, theirs have been the best I’ve had in my three and a half months here.

As with most craft breweries, their beers lean heavily on the ale side of the market. They’re easier to make, and most folks patronize these establishments because they want ales instead of lagers. Even though I enjoy an excellent lager and will not hesitate to elevate a brewery simply based on its lagers, I’ve been pleased with the beer I’ve consumed at Great Leap.

While their beer list remains extensive and is constantly rotating, I will highlight two I’ve recently enjoyed–Pragmatic General IPA and Knighted General APA.

Pragmatic General IPA

Pragmatic General IPA–5.6% ABV. Citra/Mosaic/Simcoe hops. 60 RMB/$8.25

Look: Orange, slight haze, cream-colored foam that sticks to the side of the glass, bubbles not visible through the haze.

Aroma: citrus, juice, peels, reminiscent of TANG.

Taste: An absolute Juice Bomb, just like a mimosa. White grape juice. Hint of bitter hops. Long finish. Tartness around the edges of your tongue.

Feel: The bitterness and tartness can be felt on the tongue, while the beer has a light mouthfeel.

Overall: I absolutely would drink again. I wouldn't look any further if I saw it on a tap list. And if my Mandarin were better, I’d look for it when picking places for dinner. 4.25 out of 5.



Knighted General APA

Knighted General APA–4.2 % ABV (one bone of contention here: they didn’t update the menu with the correct English translation of the beer description). 50 RMB/$6.85

Look: Gold/Old Gold, thick white foam, sticky, somewhat hazy.

Aroma: Spring/Wild Flowers, bitter, maybe cut grass.

Taste: Tart and sweet, subtle dankness, light, medium body.

Feel: Full flavored, peppery, long finish, medium tannins.

Overall: Smooth and well-balanced. It's light on the palette but a tad too heavy for a session. I would definitely drink again, but I probably wouldn’t seek it out. 3.75 out of 5.

Clearly, I need to work on taking pictures of these beers. LOL.